Fine Civil War Women's Clothing
Civil War Clothing
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Glossary of Clothing Terms 1858-1867


AGNES SOREL CORSAGE: bodice with square neckline and bishop sleeved.
ALBANIAN ROBE: garment having flounces with colored stripes from shoulder to waist with shape of a stomacher.
AMADIS SLEEVE: sleeve pleated at top armhole, hidden beneath an epaulette and tight from elbow to wrist, with a row of buttons at wrist.
BABY FRENCH HEEL: small low heel curved inward at lower part.
BASQUE: outer part of dress sewed to boned bodice.
BAVOLET: flounce sewed to back of bonnet, covering hair and neck.
BLOOMERS: loose ORiental trousers gathered at knee, first made popular by Amelia Bloomer in 1851.
BOLERO: short small jacket with rounded front corners.
BOOT: ankle high shoe
BOURNOUSE: fringed, knee-length mantle with hood.
BOWLER (aka DERBY HAT): stiff, felt hat with low, rounded crown and a narrow brim; bowler is British term with slightly wider brim and a slight roll at sides
BRACES: suspenders or suspender-like straps worn by men, extending from front waist belt, over the shoulder to belt in back.
BUSTLE: device worn by women to hold costume away from the body at back, made from various materials in different sizes and shapes.
CACHE-PEINGE: headdress of net and ribbon used to hold mass of hair on back of head.
CANEZOU: sleeveless outer garment created from the spencer; later defined as a necktie.
CAPOTE: mid-Victorian bonnet with ribbon bows tied at side or front.
CARACO: loose fitting jacket with wide revers.
CASAQUE: close-fitting jacket fastened or buttoned to neck, with skirt fringed in lace.
CATOGAN: hair arrangement of loose curls and plaits tied at top of head with ribbon.
CHAMBORD MANTLE : hooded cloak of velvet or satin resembling a shawl with deep folds in back.
CHEMISE: loose undergown of white linen or gauze.
CHEMISETTE A JABOT: pleated or embroidered jabot visible between neck and waist in opening of redingote.
CHIGNON: heavy twist or knot of natural or false hair; worn both high and low on head.
COLLEEN BAWN CLOAK: white grenadine cloak with large cape held up by rosettes on back.
CRINOLETTE: small crinoline or pannier of steel.
CRINOLINE: stiff unpliable material used to support or stiffen dress, also given name of steel springs forming a type of cage or hoop used to extend skirt; sometimes used in entire petticoat.
CROQUET BOOT: wide laced footwear with tassels front and back.
DERBY: same as bowler.
DUNDREARYS: (aka DUNDREARY WHISKERS AND PICCADILLY WEEPERS: long side whiskers worn by Lord Dundreary, a character in Tom Taylor's Our American Cousin.
EMPIRE JUPON: petticoat with gores and 2-3 steel frames at bottom.
ENGAGEANT: flounce of lace showing below below a bell-shaped loose sleeve.
EPAULETTE: shoulder ornament.
FALDETTA: small colored taffeta mantle.
FANCHON CAP: small lace cap worn in daytime.
FICHU: light-weight three-cornered scarf of shawl.
FIGARO JACKET: close-fitting short jacket with epaulettes on shoulders and cut away sides in the style of Bolero jackets.
FONTANGE TRIMMING: gathered ribbon or band in which a colored ribbon passes.
FROCK COAT: double breasted coat with long skirt of equal length front and back.
GABRIELLE DRESS: princess dress with box pleat in back and the bodice and skirt cut in one piece.
GABRIELLE SLEEVE: sleeve with multitude of puffs top to bottom.
GAITER: covering for anke or instep, sometimes going to knee.
GARIBALDI JACKET: military style jacket of scarlet cashmere. Also used to define separate blouse buttoned up front and tucked into skirt.
GARIBALDI SHIRT: shirt of bright scarlet merino decorated with black braid and buttons on front.
GILET: vest or short waistcoat.
GLADSTONE COLLAR: a standing collar with flared sides and worn with a silk scarf-like tie.
HOOP: circular framework used to expand woman's skirt (aka crinoline)
HUG-ME-TIGHT: hand-knitted or crocheted underjacket with with cape-like sleeves
IMPERIAL: small tuft of hair or beard.
INVERNESS CAPE: full sleeveless cape fitting close around neck.
ISABEAU STYLE: one-piece cut bodice and skirt.
JUPON: underskirt made of same fabric as skirt or of a contrasting material and color.
JENNY LIND COSTUME: dress with off-shoulder neckline and hoop skirt with three lace ruffles, made popular by Jenny Lind, the "Swedish Nightingale".
MAINTENON: embroidered shawl-like garment with broad pleated flounce.
MANON ROBE: one-piece garmetn with pleat in back resembling Watteau pleat, extending from under the collar to bottom of skirt.
MANTELETTE: outdoor garment with long scarf, coming to deep point in front and held in place by inner belt attached at back, usually trimmed in fringe.
MATILLA: Spanish veil draped over head
MANTLET MATILDE: shawl-like garmet with taffeta in front and trimmed in fringe.
MARY STUART CAP: small heart-shaped cap draped bag-like in back.
MONOCLE: eyeglass for one eye.
NEWGATE FRINGES: short whiskers forming a fringe around the chin.
NIGHTCAP: small cap worn at nighttime.
PAGE: elastic band used to loop up a skirt.
PAGODA SLEEVE: funnel-shaped sleeve, tight above and gradually widening at the wrist with several ruffles.
PAISLEY SHAWL: copy of an Indian shawl made in Paisley, Scotland.
PANNIER PUFF: puff formed by looping the upper skirt
PATENT-TILTER: graduated rounds of steel wire run into a muslin or calico petticoat and held together with tape. When in use, omitted need for numerous padded skirts otherwise worn.
PEIGNOR: dress with bishop sleeves and boneless bodess.
PELISSE ROBE: pelisse garment trimmed down front with ribbon knot and worn open over petticoat.
PEPLUM: short skirt of the bodice
PETTICOAT: separate skirt-like undergarment.
PICCADILLY WEEPERS: see Dundrearys.
POKE BONNET: bonnet with projecting fringe in front.
POLONAISE: dress with fullness in back where a sash was tied into a bow.
PORK PIE HAT: hat with dish-shaped fold in crown.
QUIZZING GLASS: glass for magnifying.
REDINGOTE: pelisse robe with horizontal trimming
RETICULE: small bag carried by women.
ROTONDE: short circular mantle which matched a dress.
RUSSIAN JACKET: a sleeveless short coat.
RUSSIAN VEST: loose blouse resembling a Garibaldi jacket.
SACK COAT: loose fitting coat with short high lapels.
SHIRTWAIST: masculine form of waist with high collar and cuffs.
SORTIE DE BAL: cashmere cloak with satin or silk quilted lining.
SPENCER: short jacket with turnover collar and lined in fur when worn in winter.
SURTOUT: similar to a paletot but with peplum pointing backward.
TALLIEN REDINGOTE: see Polonaise.
TALMA MANTLE: circular cloak of velvet or satin, usually hooded, resembling a shawl, sometimes with collar or cape.
TOURNURE: French bustle used to replace petticoats; made with steel springs passed through shirring across the back with front secured by strings.
VEIL: thin cloth draped over head, sometimes to cover face. Used for modesty and mourning.
VICTORIA MANTLE: knee-length collared mantle with wide hanging sleeves and a deep colored border for decoration.
WAISTCOAT: prelude to present day vest.
WATERPROOF COAT: outdoor garment worn for protection against rain, with or without cape.
WATTEAU BODY: dress with low square neck, ribbon bows down front and elbow sleeves with deep ruffles.
WATTEAU ROBE: ball dress with low square neckline and ribbon bows down front.
WELLINGTON BOOT: boot worn with riding habit.
ZOUAVE JACKET: loose short jacket in military style. Chemisette was usually seen at neck and below the 3 quarter length sleeve of jacket.


 

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